The End of the world.

Fisterra km zero. The end of the known world. Does the salt air ever taste good. I have a fine hotel room near the ocean for 15 euros. The walk out to the light house brought closure to the Camno de Santiago for me. Pilgrims were burning their clothes and I left the stone i brought from BC.
After Fiisterra I spent 3 days in Madrid, getting some culture at the Prado. The on to Cadiz for a couple of Days and then work my wasy aroung the Mediterrean Sea back to barcelona for the 6th.

On refugios

I sure got tired of Refugios, What a sight, on arrival, people absolutly obsessed with their feet, guide books and doing their washing. Then rushing about buying bread, meat and cheese for their evening meal.
The sleeping areas ranged from 2 to 100 people and after a while did not enhance my Camino experience. People sure do make an amazing assortment of sounds and other things.
For not a lot more money one can stay in a hotel or pension and eat the meal of the day for about the same price as they were paying for bread and cheese and my meal included wine.
The kicker though was the mornings, most Pilgrims insisted on getting up so early and rushing off to the next Refugio to repeat this process. When they arose the rustling began and reached a cresendo, rustle,rustle, rustle it drove me nuts. Bless them all. Guess where I stayed.

Santiago de Compostela

Well Santiago {St James} The old guy made it. and quite an adventure it was. We arrived Sunday afternoon it it was a bit anti-climatic. Hoever the next day after a good rest and cleanup reality set in and it was wonderful. Visiting the cathederal, mass, and the amazing sight of 5 men swinging the world´´s largest incence burner brought a satisfying conclusion to the trip of a lifetime. Then 2 days of joyful reunions with fellow Pilgrims and exploring this historic city topped my Camino off.
I am now off to the end of the world at Fisterra, Madrid, Cadiz, Gibralter and making my way back to Barcellona for my return flight July6. I will meet Liz in Toronto for a week and be back in Vancouver July 17,06

SANTIGO

MADE IT ! What a walk. Today we do our arrival rituals and receive our certificates, exciting stuff. And then I have to throw away some clothes and buy new ones.
About 5 days ago on the Camino, the swelling on my foot went away and the pain left. Thank you Santiago

Some Camino thoughts

I was just commenting less than 100k to go, it is so strange. The Camino has been all encompasing for over a month now, and I am not sure how I feel about the pilgrimage ending. The ouside world has been totally divorced from my mind, no TV, Radio, newspapers, phones, Walmart´s, it is not quite reality.
There have been 2 day´s when I thought my camino would end and I would not be able to continue. Now I look forward to every day.
One meets some wonderful people on the Camino, we share stories and experiences, some times we walk alone and sometimes together. Being alone has some benefits eg. setting your own pace, start stop times, preferences of sight seeing, that said, it would be very nice to have some one close to you to share the experience.
There are many couples on the Camino and the harmony between them without exception is unique.

Galicia

I get away from Triacastle about 0800, beautiful rolling hills in Galicia, mostly farmland, good going. The weather since I have been on the Camino has been in the high 70´s no rain except for one day. There are many milk cows grazing and at night they herd them back to the villages down the main drag which is really nothing more than a lane. Every cow leaves evidence of it´s passing. The barn is either next to the house or under it. Must make for interesting eau de bovine. Out in the fields I try to engage a cow in conversation but my ¨cow´is like my spanish and we have a communication problem. She rolls her big brown eyes and utters something I take to mean ´screw off buster´
I made it to Saria and decided to go a few more k´s to Rente and end up staying in a castle like hotel all by myself. I had hoped to eat with the family but ended up eating alone in a big dining room. I slept in to 0830 met 4 other men all about my age and we travelled together, A yank now in N. Ireland, a Swiss now in Denver, A man from Denver and a Swiss. We stopped at every Bar for coffee, strangly none of was in a hurry. Less than 100 k. left

I give it a try

Next day I give a try, and make it 6k toVillafranca. But the body is weak and I cannot cary on. I grab another taxi and ride to Cebreiro. The Cabby is great and takes me along the Camino route and it is spectacular thru the mountains. Cebreiro is a special place located at hte top of the mountain and we are treated to spectaculer light and thunder show. I finally get a bowel of soup down and start to feel there is hope for me. The trouper I am the next day I make 22k to
Triacastela. It is mostly downhill and it rains a bit the first in four weeks. So I am hoping for better things from the old body. I sure do wish I had not fallen off that barge and busted myself up.

Leon Mountains

After leaving Astorga I pass through several small towns with the mountains fast approaching. my companions and I decide to stay at Rabanal, at a refuge run by the English Confaternity. waiting for it to open we were offered watermelon and cold water. After we were shown to our beds afternoon tea awaited. That evening We attended a Gregorian chant at what was a very important Templar Church. Also sharing our refuge are 2 mules Nuggent and Narcisus.
And now on to the mountains, not nearly as bad as advertised at the peak cruz al fero 1500 meters one is supposed to leave a stone brought from home, I have misplaced mine, when I find it I will throw it in the Med. sea. All so near the top is an ecentric host Thomas and his mule and the worst coffee I have ever tasted. Tonight I will stay in a pension in Riego de Ambros, they have a bath tub, It is wonderful.
This is going to turn out to be a slow day. After 13 k I reach Ponferrada, another surprise and exciting city. The Templar castle is huge and everything that a castle should be moats, drawbridge and all. I am really slowing down and it is avery long 28 k. Turns out I am reacting to the antiinflamatories and my poor tummy is wrecked and I am wiped, next day I cannot leave my room I am wrecked from you can guess what, Fortunatly I am staying in a hotel. I do get some medicine at the Pharmacy and feel somewhat better by 4.00 Pm, I have lost a day but that is okay, I have extras.

Whine

Fellow Canadians it is time¨for a revolution.And it shall be called the Great Canadian¨Whine¨¨Revolution. In Spain wine is usually included in the price of your meal if not a bottleof fine local is only 3 or 4 dollars. Fellow Canadians we have been overcharged for our wine far to long. The time to revoltet is now let us all join together and Whine¨¨

Leon and Beyond

June 3rd was a record day for me I walked 30 k. to Reliegos, Exhausted but a cervaces and a shower fixed meet right up. Did not know any one here so I dined alone, I have no idea what I had for dinner but it was good, and so was the wine.
The next morning I awoke and everyone was gone, this is not easy with the rustling of 3o odd people and the Tower of Bablon.
Had the Camino to myself except for great buzzards, storks, eagles, hawks, cookoo birds, multitudes of song birds and huge bull frogs.
Finally made Leon, got lost, grabbed a taxi but my destination was just around the corner so I was not lost just confused. I found a wonderful hotel right on the Cathederal Square and stayed 2 nights. I thought Bergos was something for history and architecture, Leon was even more delightful. The Cathederal has one of the world´s best examples of stained glass, the cloisters, the choir, the carvings, the art an awful lot for a boy from the boonies. I spent half an hour studing the carvings on just one door. Some of Gaudi´s work here as well.
After Leon I reached Astorga, a smaller city but special as well. I sat in the shadow of Gaudi´s Palacio Episcopal, A castle to inspire Disneyland. Later I had dinner at the Hotel Gaudi, tres elegant, superb service,excellent fare, a very nice local wine all for 10 €.`[ Just found that euro sign. ]
Today was another hallmark day 500 kilometres. I am still on the meseta, but that will end tommorrow. I can see the mountains on the horizon. My guide book says to prepare for the roughest 50 k. on the Camino up to 1600 metres and down again TWICE.
Buen Camino Peregrino